Our story
After Bishorn we were not sure we ever wanted to ski another 4000 m peak but pretty soon we forgot how horrible that descent was and decided to go for another one before the storm. The easiest one. And this was all we asked for.
We took the first lift up. Weather was amazing. Two hours later we stood on the summit. It was a walk in the park and even if skiing down was a little bit tricky in the steepest parts we got some really good turns after that. We were back in Zermatt for lunch and another mountain done.
The only thing that didn´t go according to plan was that we wanted to traverse over to Central Breithorn too but the conditions on the ridge were not good enough, with blank ice in some spots so we decided to leave that for another day.
This is almost too easy to be your first 4000 m peak because the experience is too short but if you are looking for a quick climb when you are in Zermatt this is a good half day activity. Pollux together with a guide would be a more adventurous experience and a full day out in the mountains.
/ Emma Svensson
Mountain
Breithorn West 4164 m
Route & grade
Normal Route from Klein Matterhorn, F
Location
Pennine Alps, Switzerland
Start of climb
Klein Matterhorn, 3883 m, which can be reached by cable car from Zermatt
Distance
2.8 km to the summit. 5-6 km in total for ascent and descent.
Elevation gain
+400 m to the summit.
Estimated time
2-3 hours from Klein Matterhorn to the summit. 1 hour back down from the summit to the cable car.
About the route
Probably the easiest 4000 m peak in The Alps if you climb it from the lift. Glacier walk with max 35 degrees slope. Nothing technical. Summit can be a little bit exposed but nothing major. Watch out for crevasses.
When to climb
March – October, depending on conditions. Good to do with skis in spring.
Gear to bring
30-40 m rope, harness, crampons, ice axe, glacier rescue gear.
Photos
We took the first lift up. At the beginning of the glacier we put on skins and roped up.
Breithorn is climbed almost everyday all year around so there will probably be tracks to follow. Remember you are on a glacier and there is crevasses (I put my pole through the snow on a hidden one with endless bottom).
It´s never too steep and the distance is very close.
Beautiful views!
Steepest part is around 35 degrees.
On the summit! It´s a pretty big spot usually but with all the new snow it was more narrow and a little bit more exposed.
After checking out the ridge to Central Breithorn we decided to not do it. Blank ice in some spots.
Hanna Gawlitza joined us on the climb and took the beautiful photos. It was her second 4000 m peak after Bishorn.
Time to go back down!
On skis the descent goes really fast.
Some super nice turns in the end!
