Lagginhorn 4010 m
We took the first lift up to Hohaas from Saas-Grund in the morning. We wanted to cross the traverse under the W/SW face on the normal route early and reach the ridge before the sun hit the face since there can be a lot of rockfall.
The traverse starts with some snow fields, rocky terrain and a small via ferrata cable before you hit a big snow field. The first snowfields were frozen and we crossed them without crampons. Actually, one snowfield I slided on my ass over because it was slippery and icy. So for the big snowfield we put the crampons on. Good decision since the ones that also climbed at the same time that did not, slipped and fell and had to arrest themselves with the ice axe.
When we had passed the face we took our first little break in a safe spot before the climb continued up the W/SW Ridge. The climb is easy scrambling with a few exposed slabs and a lot of loose rocks on top so you have to be careful where to place your feet even if it´s not that hard. There is a few snow traverses along the route before you get to the final face. The terrain is a mix between snow, loose rocks and slabs here too. It´s never too steep or too difficult.
It´s a popular peak due to it´s easy access and we climbed it comfortably without a rope.
Going down we continued down the W/SW ridge all the way to the Weissmies Hut (where you need to make a reservation in advanced). The normal route is not a good choice for the descent due to rockfall so it´s better to go down the ridge all the way.
After a very comfortable night in the hut (pillows and blankets are super comfy in the hut) we walked down to the mid station of the lift and went back down to Saas-Grund.
This was a nice experience even if I had spaghetti legs on the descent due to it was our second climb of the season and coming from sea level with no mountains it´s always hard in the beginning. But the more mountains we climb the stronger I will become 🙂
Route & grade
Normal Route and W/SW Ridge from Hohaas and down to Weissmies Hut, grade PD
Pennine Alps, Switzerland
Start of climb
3,5 km from Hohaas to the summit of Lagginhorn
3 km from the summit of Lagginhorn to Weissmies Hut
+928 m from Hohaas to the summit of Lagginhorn
-1263 m from the summit of Lagginhorn to Weissmies Hut
4-5 hours to the summit
4 hours from the summit to Weissmies Hut
About the route
The route is easy scrambling on slabs and rocky terrain with some snowfields. Start early for the normal route to avoid rockfalls on the traverse W/SW face and take the W/SW ridge all the way down on the descent. There is nowhere to refill water along the route so bring everything you need.
When to climb
Summer and fall, from June to September is best.
Gear to bring
30-40 m rope, harness, crampons, ice axe, helmet.
To get to the start of the route you walk right after the lift in Hohaas and then go down a little bit so you end up on the other side of the lift.
Then you start the traverse. There is a small path (not marked but visible and you want to end up at the via ferrata cable). In the morning there can be ice on the rocks in the small springs so be careful.
There is some snow fields to traverse.
Also a way to cross them if you don´t have crampons on and it´s slippery but take our advice and wear gloves if you use this method 🙂
It´s nice with poles in the rocky terrain as long as it´s easy and your don´t need to use your hands.
The small Via Ferrata cable. It´s vert short. Just like 20-30 m.
Halfway across the W/SW face where it´s big risk for rockfalls. Go early in the morning before the sun hits and move fast across with no stops.
Small little break after we crossed the face. There is nowhere to refill water along the route so you need to bring all you need.
Then the easy climbing up the ridge starts.
It´s mellow rocky terrain with slabs.
And some snow traverses.
Almost always good holds on the rock on the traverses.
More slabs 🙂
Last part is a mix between snow & rocks in mid june. I guess it will soon only be rock here. The rock is loose with gravel on top. Watch your steps!
Never too steep.
Some walking on easier terrain.
Last part to the summit!
Easy walking on the snow.
And towards Weissmies that we climbed two days earlier.
Summit! Or halfway…
Time to go down!
The exposure is never too bad even if there is a few places you don´t want to fall…
Emma with the W/SW ridge in the background.
Me starting to get spaghetti legs on the descent 🙂
Sometimes when you climb up you think “how the hell will I get down here?” but the thing is you can´t think like that. Because you don´t have all the information. You are on your way up, you are looking at it from a different perspective. And all the times I thought like that in the mountains on my way up I never thought like that on the way down. Then it was alright.
Traversing in soft snow.
Emma taking a break.
The Weissmies hut!